Bringing Your Maltese Puppy Home
The guidelines of the American Maltese Association state that Maltese puppies should not be sold before they are 12 weeks of age. By that time a puppy that leaves for his new home they should have had several vaccinations as well as had a veterinary check-up to insure he is in good health. If you are purchasing your Maltese from a source that does not meet these requirements you should seriously reconsider your purchase.
The first weeks your Maltese is with you will be busy and demanding. There may be times when you wonder if getting a puppy was such a good idea. Things will go better if you have patience and keep your sense of humor. Remember that puppyhood only happens once. The extra effort you put into it now will pay off in the future.
Preparing For Your Puppy
Crates
Long ago, when dogs were still wild animals, they often slept in dens - shallow holes they dug in the ground hidden away in places where they felt safe from predators. A "crate" is just a modern version of a den. Just as you enjoy having your own room where you can go for peace and privacy, your dog likes having his own room, too. As well as giving him a safe, cozy place to stay, crates can make training your dog a lot easier. Housebreaking goes much faster when you use a crate and destructive chewing becomes easier to control. Traveling is safer for both you and your dog when he's in a crate.
The most popular crates are made of plastic or heavy welded steel wire. The most popular crates are made of plastic or heavy welded steel wire. Plastic crates are lightweight, portable and are easily taken apart for storage or travel. Some of them come in decorator colors. Most plastic crates meet federal regulations for airline travel. Wire crates are very popular and depending on your dog's needs, may be a better purchase than plastic. Look for sturdy crates with heavy gauge wire that are easily folded down into a "suitcase-style" shape for transportation and storage. Although they wire crates are not approved for airline use they offer better ventilation.
A crate need only be big enough for the dog to stand up, turn around and lie down comfortably. The crate should be large A crate need only be big enough for the dog to stand up, turn around and lie down comfortably. The crate should be large enough for your Maltese to stretch out on his side to sleep.
Bedding
When your puppy first comes home he will need a lot of rest following his exuberant and playful excursions in his new environment. It is important to find a place for the puppy's bed that is out of the main stream of the household traffic that will allow him the rest he needs. If you have purchased a crate for your puppy this makes an excellent bed. The additional of a washable soft pad should make the crate a cozy bed your puppy may prefer for years to come. Look for crate pads that are made of silky fabrics. Cottony and wooly fabrics can cause static electricity and contribute to breakage of coat on the ends. If your puppy will sleep in a bed other than a crate do not purchase one made wood or wicker as you puppy might chew on this and harm himself. Look for beds made of the same silky type of fabrics as those for the crate pads.
Leash & Collar
Your Maltese will need a leash and collar. Because of the hair around their necks the leather type and those made of metal do not work well. The metal collar can catch in the coat and the leather ones can wear it down. A thin nylon one-piece collar seems to work best. Many of these have a ring at one end that can be used to clip a lead to. Select a lead that is made from a similar lightweight material. Alternately many Maltese owners prefer to use the loop type one-piece show leads that have a slip knot closure. These leads can be purchased from many of the catalog pet suppliers as well as at dog shows.
Water & Food Dishes
You will need small lightweight bowls for food and water. These can be made from metal, plastic or a ceramic material. Many Maltese fanciers avoid using plastic bowls as there have been indications that they may be a cause of staining of the facial hair. Your breeder will let you know the food your puppy was eating and it is wise to not change that food immediately as this can cause stomach upsets. Maltese that drink water from water dishes get wet and sloppy faces. The wet facial hair can be a breeding ground for yeast which cause tear staining. Many Maltese owners will offer their Maltese from a water bottle such as those used for rabbits to alleviate this problem.
Toys and Chewies
When shopping for Maltese toys small is best. Look for things that squeak and things that are interactive. Maltese particularly like the fuzzy plush soft toys as well as the latex chewable ones. The small twisted ropes with knots at both ends can be a delight when there are more than one Maltese in the household to play tug-of-war. Gumabones and Nylabones are great for exercising the gums. All Maltese seem to want to chew on paper as puppies. One solution to this is to give them an empty toilet paper roll to carry around. A "nutritious" toy many enjoy is a mini carrot or a piece of vegetable. Maltese are very inquisitive little guys. It is wise to have a good supply of toys for your puppy or he may find his own -- and you never know what he will drag out of your closet.
Identification
Owners of purebred show and breeding dogs have long used tattoos to comply with the rules of identification of the American Kennel Club and to provide permanent, visible identification should their dogs get lost. Many pet owners also tattoo their dogs to prevent loss. A tattoo is etched on the inside of the dog's thigh near his abdomen.
A recent addition to identification of Maltese is the microchip, a tiny transponder the size of a grain of uncooked rice. This is a permanent identification system implanted under the dog's skin and read by a chip scanner. Implantation is done with an injector that places the chip under the loose skin at over the dog's shoulder. The process to implant the microchip is quick and no more painful than a vaccination, the number is unique and the owners name and address is available on regional or national data bases so a dog can be returned quickly and safely.
Puppy-proof your home
Raising a puppy is a lot like raising small children -- they get into everything. Raising a puppy is a lot like raising small children -- they get into everything. Some of what they get into can be hazardous to their health or to your possessions. You can make life safer for the puppy and your furniture by getting rid of hazards and temptations ahead of time.
To a puppy, the world is brand new and fascinating. He is seeing it all for the very first time and absolutely everything must be thoroughly investigated. Puppies do most of their investigating with their mouths. Murphy's Law says that a puppy will be most attracted to the things he should least have -- electrical cords, the fringe on your expensive oriental rug, your brand new running shoes, etc.
Preventing destructive and dangerous chewing is easier than trying to correct the puppy every second. Look around your home. Check for objects that could be put up out of the way of a curious puppy. Bitter Apple spray can be applied to furniture legs, woodwork and other immovable items. If there are rooms your puppy should be restricted from entering until he is better trained and more reliable install a baby gate or keep the doors to those rooms closed.
Take a walk around your yard looking for potential hazards. If your yard is fenced, check the boundaries and gates for openings that could be potential escape routes. Puppies can get through smaller places than an adult dog. The grass is always greener on the other side of the fence -- even to a puppy. If your yard is not fenced, make a resolution right now that your puppy will never be allowed to run off lead without close supervision. Keep him safe by keeping him on leash.
If you have a swimming pool or spa exercise extreme caution with a Maltese. Curiosity as well as the need for a drink can lead a Maltese easily "over the brink". Due to the amount of coat your Maltese may have he may quickly become water logged. If you do not see him them fall into the water, he has no escape route or does not know how to use it, he can easily drown in just a few minutes.
Use a schedule
Work out a schedule for you and the puppy. Work out a schedule for you and the puppy. Housetraining is much easier when the puppy's meals, exercise and playtimes are on a regular schedule throughout the day. Plan your housebreaking schedule and create a game plan before the puppy arrives. Many people like to bring their puppy home on a weekend in order to devote extra time to settling in and housebreaking those first few days.
Everybody needs their own place
Decide where to put the puppy's crate, and have it set up and ready for his arrival. Where to keep the crate will depend on what's most convenient for you as well as the puppy's response. Many puppies don't like to be isolated in one part of the house while their family is in another but some puppies won't settled down in their crates if there's too much activity going on around them. You might have to experiment with different locations until you learn what works best for both you and the puppy.
Visit your vet
Make an appointment with your veterinarian to give the puppy a complete checkup within 72 hours of your purchase. If you do not have a vet yet, ask the breeder or local kennel club for a recommendation. Although the puppy has most likely been health-checked by the breeder, an exam is additional security against health defects, problems that were not apparent the first time. If your vet offers microchip ID implants, this an excellent time to get one. You should also discuss with your veterinarian plans for spaying or neutering your puppy when he or she is older.
Ask Your Breeder
Use your puppy's breeder as a valuable resource for advice and information. Don't be afraid to ask questions. The breeder wants your relationship with your puppy to be successful and can offer many tips based on years of experience.
Feeding Your Puppy
Puppies should be feed three times a day until they are three months old. They should be then feed two times a day for the rest of their lives. If you are feeding a dry kibble you may wish to soak the kibble in water to soften this for younger puppies. By the time they are three to four months old they should be eating the kibble dry or with a little canned food mixed in. Do not give your puppy fresh milk. If you have problems getting your puppy to eat you may consider adding a little cottage cheese or some Gerber baby food meats to his kibble.
It is important that you check your puppy's rectum daily as stool can get stuck in their hair and prevent them from having a bowel movement. This can cause serious problems and be very painful. Trimming the hair around the rectum can help prevent this.
Socializing Your Puppy
Because your new puppy will quickly grow up, you should give serious thought to the socialization process, as soon as you bring it home. Decide what rules you want obeyed, and stick with them from day one. Inconsistent rules do not work. If you don't want your Maltese to beg while you eat, never feed it from the kitchen or dining room table, and never feed it soon after you eat. By feeding your Maltese before you eat, feeding it in a place away from where you eat, and requiring it to remain away from the table while you eat, your puppy will become a polite dog. Just a few pieces of food dropped on the floor (by accident or on purpose) that the dog gets to eat during your meal, and all of your previous work will be undone.
If you allow the puppy to jump up onto people when it is little, it will do it when it is an adult. If the puppy sees what life is like from on top of a chair or sofa, it will be at home there when it is an adult also. Decide what rules you want the adult dog to obey in your house and apply them to your puppy now. Be consistent.
Exposure to new environments, situations, people and animals is all part of the socialization process. If your dog has had limited exposure to the outside world start slowly, keeping in mind that it may be stressful for your dog. Gradually add distractions and new locations. Socialization is like any other part of training, building on small successes to make the foundation strong. Reward your Maltese when he exhibits relaxed behavior, by using treats, praise, petting or play. Ask friends if you can bring the dog along when you go for a visit. Make a list of all the places you can take your dog and start taking him or her.
Housebreaking Your Puppy
A puppy should have a schedule. He should be taken to his outside relief spot last thing at night and first thing in the morning as well as after meals and naps, and that he should be praised when he does his duty. When taking the puppy to his outdoor spot, don't play with him or allow the children to do so. First things first. If the pup does not relieve himself, put him in the crate for a few minutes, then try again. Most puppies will not soil in their crates if they can possibly help it. Take your Maltese out every 2 hours to the "potty" area, whether it has eaten or not. Don't play with the puppy until he relieves himself. If he doesn't urinate and defecate within 10 minutes, bring him inside and place him in his crate for 10-15 minutes, then try again. Continue this routine until he is successful, and then praise him. The times that a puppy will most likely want to eliminate are after eating or drinking, after a nap, or after a period of play or vigorous exercise. Be patient, consistent, and regulate what goes into your puppy's tummy, so you can regulate what comes out.
Many Maltese owners live in apartments and have found that they prefer to train their puppies to the disposable pads such as those used in hospitals, which have a plastic backing. Puppy's train well to these pads and many use these for their entire life.
Never punish your Maltese puppy for mistakes. Once you're fairly confident that the puppy understands where to relieve himself, scold him for mistakes, but don't spank, scream, or push his nose in the mess. The spot should be cleaned up, preferably with an enzyme odor eliminator. If the odor is left untended, the dog will find it again, even if people cannot detect any smell. Failures in housetraining are human mistakes, not puppy errors. The puppy does not understand that carpets are for walking, not bowel relief.
If a puppy reaches four or five months of age and is still having regular accidents in the house, make sure he does not have a bladder infection, intestinal parasites, or other medical reason for his failure to signal that he needs to go outside. Then redouble the efforts to teach him what you want him to know.
How Big Will My Puppy Be?
Maltese breeders usually use the weight at about 10 - 12 weeks to gauge the size of a Maltese when they are adults. Double the weight -- a female will be slightly smaller and a male perhaps slightly larger. For example, if your female puppy weighs 2 1/4 pounds at around 3 months of age (the age you bought your puppy from the breeder) I would expect that your little girl will weight around 4 - 4 1/2 pounds as an adult. A male puppy that weighs 2 3/4 pounds at 3 months will probably mature out to around 6 pounds. Both of these puppies would be well within the standard for the Maltese breed.
How Many Years Will My Puppy Live?
Maltese are a breed that relatively free of many of the serious genetic diseases that can cause premature death. With good veterinary attention and loving care of its owner many Maltese will live well into their middle teenage years.
Maltese - all and about
Alternative names
Bichoy Maltaise, Couton
Country of origin
Malta
Classification and breed standards
FCI:
Group 9 Section 1 #65
Stds AKC:
Toy group
Stds ANKC:
Group 1 (Toys)
Stds CKC:
Group 5 - Toys
Stds KC (UK):
Toy
Stds NZKC:
Working
Stds UKC:
Companion Breeds
A Maltese is a small breed of white dog belonging to the toy group. The Maltese does not shed and is covered from head to foot with a mantle of long, silky, white hair. An ancient breed long associated with the island of Malta, it has retained its distinct appearance for millennia. They are very lovable and often get along well with other dogs. Tear stains make red circles around their eyes, though, so their coat should be carefully taken care of.
Maltese appearance
Build: Tiny, compact, slightly longer than tall
Weight: 4-7 lbs. standards
Height: 7-9 inches (21-25cm.)
Coat: Luxurious silky white, shiny, thick, heavy hair about 8½ inches (22cm.) long hanging straight to the ground on each side of a center part line, single, with no undercoat, and should not be wavy, curly or kinky. These dogs shed no hair off of their coat. Note, however, that in most cases tear staining affects the white sheen of the coat around the eyes.
Color: Pure white (light ivory acceptable)
Head: Slightly rounded
Teeth: Even, edge-to-edge bite, or a scissors bite
Eyes: Dark, round, large, deep, with dark rims
Ears: Long, pendant
Tail: Long-haired plume carried gracefully over the back
Limbs: Fine-boned
Feet: Small and round
Life span: Median 12-15 years
Characteristics include slightly rounded skulls, with a one (1) finger width dome and a black nose that is two (2) finger widths long. The body is compact with the length equaling the height. The drop ears with long hair and very dark eyes, surrounded by darker skin pigmentation that is called a "halo", gives Maltese their expressive look. Their noses can fade and become pink or light brown in color. This is often referred to as a "winter nose"[1] and many times will become black again with increased exposure to the sun. Malteses have extremely long tongues.
Size
Adult Maltese range from roughly 3 to 10 lb (1.4 to 4.5 kg), though breed standards, as a whole, call for weights between 4 and 8 lb (1.8 to 3.7 kg). There are variations depending on which standard is being used; many, like the American Kennel Club, call for a weight that is ideally between 4 and 6 lb (1.8 to 2.7 kg), and no more than 7 lb (3.2 kg).
Coat and color
The coat is long and silky and lacks an undercoat. The color is pure white and although cream or light lemon ears are permissible, they are not desirable. Some individuals may have curly or woolly hair, but this is outside the standard.
Temperament
A juvenile Maltese dog immersed in woodland leaf litter.
The Maltese can be a handful for owners unprepared to deal with their energy. Maltese are also notoriously difficult to housebreak and often need to be box or paper trained (via "Wee-Wee Pads"), rather than trained to "go out". Maltese should not be around aggression as they will relate to it and show aggression towards you.
For all their diminutive size, Maltese also seem, for the most part, to be without fear. In fact, many Maltese seem relatively indifferent to creatures/objects larger than themselves, which makes them very easy to socialize with other dogs, and even cats. They are extremely lively and playful, and even as a Maltese ages, his/her energy level and playful demeanor remain fairly constant and does not diminish much.
Although Maltese are very good with children, a Maltese puppy would not necessarily be a good choice for families with infants. The breed tends to believe that the infants are other puppies with whom to play, which can be disruptive. Once a Maltese is a bit older and more mature, it is fine around extremely small children and infants.
Maltese do not require much physical exercise, although they should be walked daily to reduce problem behavior. They enjoy running and are more inclined to play games of chase, rather than play with toys. They can be very demanding and, true to their nature as "lap dogs", love to cuddle and often seek this sort of attention. The Maltese is very active in the house, and, preferring enclosed spaces, does very well with small yards. For this reason the breed also does well with apartments and townhouses, and is a prized pet of urban dwellers, especially as they are not yappy. They are incredibly friendly dogs to people they know. With strangers they will make a high pitched bark but will quiet down if the person means no harm. They are not the kind of dog that needs constant affection; if you don't want to play they will gladly go on their own.
Care
A Maltese dog that exhibits signs of tear staining underneath eyes and around the snout.
Maltese have no undercoat, and have little to no shedding if cared for properly. Like their relatives Poodles and Bichon Frisé, they are considered to be largely hypoallergenic and many people who are allergic to dogs may not be allergic to the Maltese (See list of Hypoallergenic dog breeds). Daily cleaning is fully required as Maltese would then get tear-staining.
Regular grooming is required to prevent the coats of non-shedding dogs from matting. Many owners will keep their Maltese clipped in a "puppy cut," a 1 - 2" all over trim that makes the dog resemble a puppy. Some owners, especially those who show Maltese in the sport of conformation, prefer to wrap the long hair to keep it from matting and breaking off, and then to show the dog with the hair unwrapped combed out to its full length.
Dark staining in the hair around the eyes ("tear staining") can be a problem in this breed, and is mostly a function of how much the individual dog's eyes water and the size of the tear ducts. Tear stain can be readily removed if a fine-toothed metal comb, moistened with lukewarm water, is carefully drawn through the snout hair just below the eyes. This maintenance activity must be performed every two or three days, as a layer of sticky goo is quick to redevelop. If the face is kept dry and cleaned daily, the staining can be minimized. Many veterinarians recommend avoiding foods treated with food coloring and serving distilled water to reduce tear staining.
Barking
Many toy breeds and small dogs are known to yap or scream or bite ankles. While Maltese dogs are not given to excessive barking, they will sound the alarm at noises in the night. In fact, legend has it that the ancient Romans would use the Maltese as alarm dogs, and raised them with Rottweilers, or a proto-Rottweiler breed. Intruders would first be confronted with the diminutive Maltese, only to be later confronted with their more formidable companions.
Health
The Maltese is generally a healthy breed with few inherent problems. The most significant issue for Maltese is their dental health. Maltese have notoriously bad teeth and it is not uncommon for animals to begin losing teeth at the age of 8 or 9.
There is also an inclination toward heart ailments, which usually surface around the 10th year. These might include a prolapse valve syndrome, or an enlarged ventricle. These conditions can be life threatening, but are manageable through medication.
Other problems may be a luxating patella, or "floating kneecap", portosystemic liver shunt, and progressive retinal atrophy (PRA).
Maltese are also prone to sunburn along where their hair parts, and, in general, have rather delicate skin.
Some dogs of this kind get the chills very easily, and are prone to shaking or shivering for no apparent medical reason. Maltese are also often uncomfortable in hot, as well as damp, weather.
The average life span is 12-15 years.
History
As an aristocrat of the canine world, this ancient breed has been known by a variety of names throughout the centuries. Originally called the "Melitaie Dog" he has also been known as "Ye Ancient Dogge of Malta", the "Roman Ladies' Dog," the "Comforter Dog," the "Spaniel Gentle," the "Bichon," the "Shock Dog," the "Maltese Lion Dog" and the "Maltese Terrier." Sometime within the past century, he has come to simply be known as the "Maltese." The breed's history can be traced back many centuries. Some have placed its origin at two or three thousand years ago and "Darwin" placed the origin of the breed at 6000 BC.[2]
The Maltese is thought to have been descended from a Spitz type dog found among the Swiss Lake dwellers and bred down to obtain its small size. Although there is also some evidence that the breed originated in Asia and is related to the Tibetan Terrier, the exact origin is unknown [3]. Maltese are generally associated with the island of Malta in the Mediterranean Sea. The dogs probably made their way to Europe through the Middle East with the migration of nomadic tribes. Some writers believe these proto-Maltese were used for rodent control[4][5] before the cuteness factor gained paramount importance. The Isle of Malta (or Melitae as it was then known) was a geographic center of early trade, and explorers undoubtedly found ancestors of the tiny, white dogs left there as barter for necessities and supplies. The dogs were favored by the wealthy and royalty alike and were bred over time to specifically be a companion animal.
Some royals that purportedly owned Maltese were Mary Queen of Scots, Queen Elizabeth I, Queen Victoria, Josephine Bonaparte and Marie Antoinette. Some famous people that has owned malteses are Elizabeth Taylor, Frank Sinatra, Hallie Barry, Mia Farrow, Liberace, Lee Remmick and Heather Locklear In fact, the Maltese were so favored by the Roman emperors, they choose to breed them to be pure white - something they considered a 'sacred color'. Before then, there were other light colors that Maltese come in - still seen again at the puppy stage, normally.
During the Renaissance, the poet Ludovico Ariosto in a few lines of his literary masterpiece, "Orlando Furioso," describes a dog, that could possibly be a Maltese.
Bichoy Maltaise, Couton
Country of origin
Malta
Classification and breed standards
FCI:
Group 9 Section 1 #65
Stds AKC:
Toy group
Stds ANKC:
Group 1 (Toys)
Stds CKC:
Group 5 - Toys
Stds KC (UK):
Toy
Stds NZKC:
Working
Stds UKC:
Companion Breeds
A Maltese is a small breed of white dog belonging to the toy group. The Maltese does not shed and is covered from head to foot with a mantle of long, silky, white hair. An ancient breed long associated with the island of Malta, it has retained its distinct appearance for millennia. They are very lovable and often get along well with other dogs. Tear stains make red circles around their eyes, though, so their coat should be carefully taken care of.
Maltese appearance
Build: Tiny, compact, slightly longer than tall
Weight: 4-7 lbs. standards
Height: 7-9 inches (21-25cm.)
Coat: Luxurious silky white, shiny, thick, heavy hair about 8½ inches (22cm.) long hanging straight to the ground on each side of a center part line, single, with no undercoat, and should not be wavy, curly or kinky. These dogs shed no hair off of their coat. Note, however, that in most cases tear staining affects the white sheen of the coat around the eyes.
Color: Pure white (light ivory acceptable)
Head: Slightly rounded
Teeth: Even, edge-to-edge bite, or a scissors bite
Eyes: Dark, round, large, deep, with dark rims
Ears: Long, pendant
Tail: Long-haired plume carried gracefully over the back
Limbs: Fine-boned
Feet: Small and round
Life span: Median 12-15 years
Characteristics include slightly rounded skulls, with a one (1) finger width dome and a black nose that is two (2) finger widths long. The body is compact with the length equaling the height. The drop ears with long hair and very dark eyes, surrounded by darker skin pigmentation that is called a "halo", gives Maltese their expressive look. Their noses can fade and become pink or light brown in color. This is often referred to as a "winter nose"[1] and many times will become black again with increased exposure to the sun. Malteses have extremely long tongues.
Size
Adult Maltese range from roughly 3 to 10 lb (1.4 to 4.5 kg), though breed standards, as a whole, call for weights between 4 and 8 lb (1.8 to 3.7 kg). There are variations depending on which standard is being used; many, like the American Kennel Club, call for a weight that is ideally between 4 and 6 lb (1.8 to 2.7 kg), and no more than 7 lb (3.2 kg).
Coat and color
The coat is long and silky and lacks an undercoat. The color is pure white and although cream or light lemon ears are permissible, they are not desirable. Some individuals may have curly or woolly hair, but this is outside the standard.
Temperament
A juvenile Maltese dog immersed in woodland leaf litter.
The Maltese can be a handful for owners unprepared to deal with their energy. Maltese are also notoriously difficult to housebreak and often need to be box or paper trained (via "Wee-Wee Pads"), rather than trained to "go out". Maltese should not be around aggression as they will relate to it and show aggression towards you.
For all their diminutive size, Maltese also seem, for the most part, to be without fear. In fact, many Maltese seem relatively indifferent to creatures/objects larger than themselves, which makes them very easy to socialize with other dogs, and even cats. They are extremely lively and playful, and even as a Maltese ages, his/her energy level and playful demeanor remain fairly constant and does not diminish much.
Although Maltese are very good with children, a Maltese puppy would not necessarily be a good choice for families with infants. The breed tends to believe that the infants are other puppies with whom to play, which can be disruptive. Once a Maltese is a bit older and more mature, it is fine around extremely small children and infants.
Maltese do not require much physical exercise, although they should be walked daily to reduce problem behavior. They enjoy running and are more inclined to play games of chase, rather than play with toys. They can be very demanding and, true to their nature as "lap dogs", love to cuddle and often seek this sort of attention. The Maltese is very active in the house, and, preferring enclosed spaces, does very well with small yards. For this reason the breed also does well with apartments and townhouses, and is a prized pet of urban dwellers, especially as they are not yappy. They are incredibly friendly dogs to people they know. With strangers they will make a high pitched bark but will quiet down if the person means no harm. They are not the kind of dog that needs constant affection; if you don't want to play they will gladly go on their own.
Care
A Maltese dog that exhibits signs of tear staining underneath eyes and around the snout.
Maltese have no undercoat, and have little to no shedding if cared for properly. Like their relatives Poodles and Bichon Frisé, they are considered to be largely hypoallergenic and many people who are allergic to dogs may not be allergic to the Maltese (See list of Hypoallergenic dog breeds). Daily cleaning is fully required as Maltese would then get tear-staining.
Regular grooming is required to prevent the coats of non-shedding dogs from matting. Many owners will keep their Maltese clipped in a "puppy cut," a 1 - 2" all over trim that makes the dog resemble a puppy. Some owners, especially those who show Maltese in the sport of conformation, prefer to wrap the long hair to keep it from matting and breaking off, and then to show the dog with the hair unwrapped combed out to its full length.
Dark staining in the hair around the eyes ("tear staining") can be a problem in this breed, and is mostly a function of how much the individual dog's eyes water and the size of the tear ducts. Tear stain can be readily removed if a fine-toothed metal comb, moistened with lukewarm water, is carefully drawn through the snout hair just below the eyes. This maintenance activity must be performed every two or three days, as a layer of sticky goo is quick to redevelop. If the face is kept dry and cleaned daily, the staining can be minimized. Many veterinarians recommend avoiding foods treated with food coloring and serving distilled water to reduce tear staining.
Barking
Many toy breeds and small dogs are known to yap or scream or bite ankles. While Maltese dogs are not given to excessive barking, they will sound the alarm at noises in the night. In fact, legend has it that the ancient Romans would use the Maltese as alarm dogs, and raised them with Rottweilers, or a proto-Rottweiler breed. Intruders would first be confronted with the diminutive Maltese, only to be later confronted with their more formidable companions.
Health
The Maltese is generally a healthy breed with few inherent problems. The most significant issue for Maltese is their dental health. Maltese have notoriously bad teeth and it is not uncommon for animals to begin losing teeth at the age of 8 or 9.
There is also an inclination toward heart ailments, which usually surface around the 10th year. These might include a prolapse valve syndrome, or an enlarged ventricle. These conditions can be life threatening, but are manageable through medication.
Other problems may be a luxating patella, or "floating kneecap", portosystemic liver shunt, and progressive retinal atrophy (PRA).
Maltese are also prone to sunburn along where their hair parts, and, in general, have rather delicate skin.
Some dogs of this kind get the chills very easily, and are prone to shaking or shivering for no apparent medical reason. Maltese are also often uncomfortable in hot, as well as damp, weather.
The average life span is 12-15 years.
History
As an aristocrat of the canine world, this ancient breed has been known by a variety of names throughout the centuries. Originally called the "Melitaie Dog" he has also been known as "Ye Ancient Dogge of Malta", the "Roman Ladies' Dog," the "Comforter Dog," the "Spaniel Gentle," the "Bichon," the "Shock Dog," the "Maltese Lion Dog" and the "Maltese Terrier." Sometime within the past century, he has come to simply be known as the "Maltese." The breed's history can be traced back many centuries. Some have placed its origin at two or three thousand years ago and "Darwin" placed the origin of the breed at 6000 BC.[2]
The Maltese is thought to have been descended from a Spitz type dog found among the Swiss Lake dwellers and bred down to obtain its small size. Although there is also some evidence that the breed originated in Asia and is related to the Tibetan Terrier, the exact origin is unknown [3]. Maltese are generally associated with the island of Malta in the Mediterranean Sea. The dogs probably made their way to Europe through the Middle East with the migration of nomadic tribes. Some writers believe these proto-Maltese were used for rodent control[4][5] before the cuteness factor gained paramount importance. The Isle of Malta (or Melitae as it was then known) was a geographic center of early trade, and explorers undoubtedly found ancestors of the tiny, white dogs left there as barter for necessities and supplies. The dogs were favored by the wealthy and royalty alike and were bred over time to specifically be a companion animal.
Some royals that purportedly owned Maltese were Mary Queen of Scots, Queen Elizabeth I, Queen Victoria, Josephine Bonaparte and Marie Antoinette. Some famous people that has owned malteses are Elizabeth Taylor, Frank Sinatra, Hallie Barry, Mia Farrow, Liberace, Lee Remmick and Heather Locklear In fact, the Maltese were so favored by the Roman emperors, they choose to breed them to be pure white - something they considered a 'sacred color'. Before then, there were other light colors that Maltese come in - still seen again at the puppy stage, normally.
During the Renaissance, the poet Ludovico Ariosto in a few lines of his literary masterpiece, "Orlando Furioso," describes a dog, that could possibly be a Maltese.
Tear Stains - bekas air mata
Background and Causes
Perhaps one of the most frequent questions I am asked about Maltese at dog shows is "what do you do to keep your dog's face so white?" My answer is always multiple in nature.; it includes the multiple causes of tear staining, including excessive tearing, genetics, health and diet, fleas, what the prevention is, and what can be done about it when you have it. But remember the bottom line is . . . you must understand tear staining and have it under control or removing it will do no good -- it will only come back and may be worse!!!
Perhaps one of the most frequent questions I am asked about Maltese at dog shows is "what do you do to keep your dog's face so white?" My answer is always multiple in nature.; it includes the multiple causes of tear staining, including excessive tearing, genetics, health and diet, fleas, what the prevention is, and what can be done about it when you have it. But remember the bottom line is . . . you must understand tear staining and have it under control or removing it will do no good -- it will only come back and may be worse!!!
Excess Tearing -- Red Yeast
Most veterinary eye specialists believe the actual cause of tear staining is excess tearing. When the face hair is wet from excess tearing it is the breeding ground for bacteria and yeast. One of the most common yeast infections is Ptyrosporin or Red Yeast which causes a deep reddish-brown stain. Low grade bacterial infections in the tear ducts are also common and may cause excess tearing and staining.
Most veterinary eye specialists believe the actual cause of tear staining is excess tearing. When the face hair is wet from excess tearing it is the breeding ground for bacteria and yeast. One of the most common yeast infections is Ptyrosporin or Red Yeast which causes a deep reddish-brown stain. Low grade bacterial infections in the tear ducts are also common and may cause excess tearing and staining.
Blocked Tear Ducts
If you have a Maltese with excessive tear stains and tearing a visit to your veterinarian may be needed. It is not unusual to find that your Maltese may have completely clogged tear ducts which need to be irrigated by your vet. A veterinary opthamology specialist that I discussed tear staining with also indicated that as many as 20% of small dogs, such as Maltese, may be born with lower tear ducts that are physically closed. These may need to be surgically opened.
Ear Infections
Many times a rampant ear infection can be the cause of excessive tearing and staining. Care needs to be taken that when you Maltese is bathed the ears are dried after the bath. When your Maltese is bathed make sure a good cleansing product that will leave the ears dry is used. Scraggly hairs in the ears should also be removed by plucking or using a forceps to gently pull the hair out. Frequent cleaning with a product such as Nolvasan Otic can go along way to insuring clean ears and a white face. There are several good products to use for ear infections -- see the "Cures" section below for these.
Many times a rampant ear infection can be the cause of excessive tearing and staining. Care needs to be taken that when you Maltese is bathed the ears are dried after the bath. When your Maltese is bathed make sure a good cleansing product that will leave the ears dry is used. Scraggly hairs in the ears should also be removed by plucking or using a forceps to gently pull the hair out. Frequent cleaning with a product such as Nolvasan Otic can go along way to insuring clean ears and a white face. There are several good products to use for ear infections -- see the "Cures" section below for these.
Genetics
I believe that genetics plays a significant role in excessive tearing and staining. Like most everyone with more than one dog I have had Maltese that tear stain. However, my first champion Maltese bitch has had minimal tear staining. When I breed her both of her puppies had no tear staining as baby puppies. The female puppy continued through her championship and a limited specials career with no tear staining. She recently had a litter of 3 puppies and as of 4 months of age they have absolutely no tear staining or facial stain from nursing. One month after this litter of puppies was whelped I had another unrelated bitch whelp. Both were breed to the same sire. The second litter of puppies had tearing and staining from the beginning. The head structure on the two litters is different. Many veterinary eye specialists believe that the actual structure around the eye area plays a significant role in excessive tearing. I feel there is a genetic predisposition toward tear staining. Being selective in Maltese breeding stock can play a significant role in tear staining.
I believe that genetics plays a significant role in excessive tearing and staining. Like most everyone with more than one dog I have had Maltese that tear stain. However, my first champion Maltese bitch has had minimal tear staining. When I breed her both of her puppies had no tear staining as baby puppies. The female puppy continued through her championship and a limited specials career with no tear staining. She recently had a litter of 3 puppies and as of 4 months of age they have absolutely no tear staining or facial stain from nursing. One month after this litter of puppies was whelped I had another unrelated bitch whelp. Both were breed to the same sire. The second litter of puppies had tearing and staining from the beginning. The head structure on the two litters is different. Many veterinary eye specialists believe that the actual structure around the eye area plays a significant role in excessive tearing. I feel there is a genetic predisposition toward tear staining. Being selective in Maltese breeding stock can play a significant role in tear staining.
Cutting Teeth
Maltese will cut their adult teeth any time form 5 months to 8 months of age. During this time the head structure and mouth are under going many changes causing pressure on the tear ducts. Many Maltese puppies who have had no previous tear stain problems will during this time. It is most important to keep the facial hair as dry as possible and frequently wash it to help keep yeast and bacteria under control. The good news is that when the adult teeth are in this will go away if you have kept it under control. Make sure your Maltese has plenty of chew type of toys to help relieve the pressure on the mouth during this time.
Maltese will cut their adult teeth any time form 5 months to 8 months of age. During this time the head structure and mouth are under going many changes causing pressure on the tear ducts. Many Maltese puppies who have had no previous tear stain problems will during this time. It is most important to keep the facial hair as dry as possible and frequently wash it to help keep yeast and bacteria under control. The good news is that when the adult teeth are in this will go away if you have kept it under control. Make sure your Maltese has plenty of chew type of toys to help relieve the pressure on the mouth during this time.
Irritation & Allergies
Eliminating excess tearing is one of the best ways to stop staining. Maltese owners should pay attention to the hair around the face and prevent hair from falling into the eyes causing irritation and infection.
Maltese can be susceptible to allergies so watch the environment your Maltese is in. I have heard from other Maltese owners whose dogs previously had sparkling white faces and overnight tear stained when in a hotel room with a friend who smoked. It also is important to be extra careful when bathing you Maltese. Shampoo and other chemicals in the eyes can cause irritation and excess tearing. I use a little DuoLube -- basically sterile mineral oil -- to protect my Maltese dogs' eyes when I bathe them. You can find this human product in the eye care section of most drug stores.
My vet believes that many times a "sub-clinical" allergy so something as simple as a type of food can cause an allergy which is an inflammatory reaction. The inflammatory reaction can change the pH fluid in your dogs systems causing excessive tearing and potentially allergies.
Eliminating excess tearing is one of the best ways to stop staining. Maltese owners should pay attention to the hair around the face and prevent hair from falling into the eyes causing irritation and infection.
Maltese can be susceptible to allergies so watch the environment your Maltese is in. I have heard from other Maltese owners whose dogs previously had sparkling white faces and overnight tear stained when in a hotel room with a friend who smoked. It also is important to be extra careful when bathing you Maltese. Shampoo and other chemicals in the eyes can cause irritation and excess tearing. I use a little DuoLube -- basically sterile mineral oil -- to protect my Maltese dogs' eyes when I bathe them. You can find this human product in the eye care section of most drug stores.
My vet believes that many times a "sub-clinical" allergy so something as simple as a type of food can cause an allergy which is an inflammatory reaction. The inflammatory reaction can change the pH fluid in your dogs systems causing excessive tearing and potentially allergies.
Water
The water in many areas has a high mineral level. If your Maltese drinks from a water dish and your local water has a high mineral content you may find the entire face and beard stained. I have solved this by training all my dogs to drink from a water bottle. This also keeps the face dry. I start training puppies to drink from a water bottle when they are weaned. Alternatively, a Maltese can be placed on purified or commercial bottled water.
The water in many areas has a high mineral level. If your Maltese drinks from a water dish and your local water has a high mineral content you may find the entire face and beard stained. I have solved this by training all my dogs to drink from a water bottle. This also keeps the face dry. I start training puppies to drink from a water bottle when they are weaned. Alternatively, a Maltese can be placed on purified or commercial bottled water.
Food & Treats
Diet can play a significant key role in tear staining. I find that feeding a dry kibble that is natural with no additives, preservatives or food color in it seems to aid in maintaining white stain free faces. Many commercial dog foods contain beep pulp which can cause staining of the face and beard. I also keep my show dogs' face hair in wraps so that their food does not come into contact with their hair. If facial hair is not wrapped it needs to be washed on a regular basis to removed any left over partially digested food.
Diet can play a significant key role in tear staining. I find that feeding a dry kibble that is natural with no additives, preservatives or food color in it seems to aid in maintaining white stain free faces. Many commercial dog foods contain beep pulp which can cause staining of the face and beard. I also keep my show dogs' face hair in wraps so that their food does not come into contact with their hair. If facial hair is not wrapped it needs to be washed on a regular basis to removed any left over partially digested food.
Fleas
Another potential source of tear staining is fleas. If you read the directions on most flea shampoos they suggest starting the shampoo with the head. Why -- because fleas need moisture to survive and get this from the dogs' tears/eyes. Naturally, this can cause an irritation in addition to red stain from the fleas' left behind feces (which contains digested blood). Another problem that comes with fleas is ear mites. These are carried by the fleas. Ear mites can cause severe ear infections and as a result tear staining. Fleas require a pro-active approach to keep under control.
Another potential source of tear staining is fleas. If you read the directions on most flea shampoos they suggest starting the shampoo with the head. Why -- because fleas need moisture to survive and get this from the dogs' tears/eyes. Naturally, this can cause an irritation in addition to red stain from the fleas' left behind feces (which contains digested blood). Another problem that comes with fleas is ear mites. These are carried by the fleas. Ear mites can cause severe ear infections and as a result tear staining. Fleas require a pro-active approach to keep under control.
Cures For Tear Staining
Before a Maltese owner attempts to remove the tear staining from a dog's face it is most important to have eliminated the source of the staining. Otherwise it will just come back and many times it will be worse than before. Once the source of excessive tearing and staining is found a pro-active program to remove the staining can begin. After insuring that health, irritation, environment, water and diet issues have been eliminated as a source of excessive tearing you can begin to think about removing the tear staining.
Tetracycline I have found success in eliminating tear staining by putting my Maltese on a ten day course of low dose chlortetracycline or tetracycline. Occasionally this may need to be repeated. However, I do not use this in puppies that have not yet cut their adult teeth. Tetracycline has been shown to cause teeth which have not erupted to permanently stain yellow.
Removing Tear Staining
If you wish to attempt to remove tear staining from the facial hair there are a several things that can done. There are a number of products available from the dog products suppliers at shows or through mail order that can be used on the facial hair on a daily basis. However, it is my opinion that unless you have minimal staining these products just do not work.
I have several methods that I can suggest to remove tear staining. Care must be taken in using these products or any other chemical solutions to not get anything in the dog's eyes. It is also important to remember that when attempting to removing tear staining you my also be damaging the hair. Before I bleach I make sure I condition the hair well first. What works best for me is Wella Kolesterol. I pack the face furnishings with this for several days before I bleach. After you bleach make sure you neutralize the effects of the chemicals you have used and condition the facial hair after any attempts to remove stain.
Before a Maltese owner attempts to remove the tear staining from a dog's face it is most important to have eliminated the source of the staining. Otherwise it will just come back and many times it will be worse than before. Once the source of excessive tearing and staining is found a pro-active program to remove the staining can begin. After insuring that health, irritation, environment, water and diet issues have been eliminated as a source of excessive tearing you can begin to think about removing the tear staining.
Tetracycline I have found success in eliminating tear staining by putting my Maltese on a ten day course of low dose chlortetracycline or tetracycline. Occasionally this may need to be repeated. However, I do not use this in puppies that have not yet cut their adult teeth. Tetracycline has been shown to cause teeth which have not erupted to permanently stain yellow.
Removing Tear Staining
If you wish to attempt to remove tear staining from the facial hair there are a several things that can done. There are a number of products available from the dog products suppliers at shows or through mail order that can be used on the facial hair on a daily basis. However, it is my opinion that unless you have minimal staining these products just do not work.
I have several methods that I can suggest to remove tear staining. Care must be taken in using these products or any other chemical solutions to not get anything in the dog's eyes. It is also important to remember that when attempting to removing tear staining you my also be damaging the hair. Before I bleach I make sure I condition the hair well first. What works best for me is Wella Kolesterol. I pack the face furnishings with this for several days before I bleach. After you bleach make sure you neutralize the effects of the chemicals you have used and condition the facial hair after any attempts to remove stain.
Milk of Magnesia, corn starch and peroxide (20 volume to 40 volume)
Use equal volume of MOM and peroxide, and then use the corn starch to make a good paste of this; put on and work well into the stained area and let dry overnight. Wash out, CONDITION WELL. Keep doing this for several days until tear staining is gone, although I would recommend skipping a day or two between applications if possible. I also like to use a few drops of Nexus KerapHix in this mixture to help with conditioning.
This MOM formula is my personal preference when I do need to remove tearstain color from the face of my dogs. It works quite well overnight.
Use equal volume of MOM and peroxide, and then use the corn starch to make a good paste of this; put on and work well into the stained area and let dry overnight. Wash out, CONDITION WELL. Keep doing this for several days until tear staining is gone, although I would recommend skipping a day or two between applications if possible. I also like to use a few drops of Nexus KerapHix in this mixture to help with conditioning.
This MOM formula is my personal preference when I do need to remove tearstain color from the face of my dogs. It works quite well overnight.
2% Peroxide & Crown Royale Magic Touch
Use the Magic Touch (#1 is best for Maltese) grooming spray concentrate full strength 1:1 with 2%/3% hydrogen peroxide - as opposed to human hair peroxide (formula above). Mix up enough for a week at a time & keep in a closed bottle. Use as cotton ball to clean the eyes. This can be drying to the coat so follow with a conditioner such as Paul Mitchell's The Conditioner (a human product). This is a longer term lifting of color over a week or two and may need to be conditioned to maintain clear conditions. Crown Royale's phone # is 1-800-992-5400 and is also available from many vendors at the dog shows.
Use the Magic Touch (#1 is best for Maltese) grooming spray concentrate full strength 1:1 with 2%/3% hydrogen peroxide - as opposed to human hair peroxide (formula above). Mix up enough for a week at a time & keep in a closed bottle. Use as cotton ball to clean the eyes. This can be drying to the coat so follow with a conditioner such as Paul Mitchell's The Conditioner (a human product). This is a longer term lifting of color over a week or two and may need to be conditioned to maintain clear conditions. Crown Royale's phone # is 1-800-992-5400 and is also available from many vendors at the dog shows.
Crown Royale makes a product called "WHITENER"
Mix this with human hair peroxide (20 volume to 40 volume) into a paste and again leave on overnight. The Crown Royale Whitener works a lot like MOM/peroxide, it works faster but IMHO it is much harsher -- again, CONDITION WELL. Crown Royale's phone # is 1-800-992-5400 and is also available from many vendors at the dog shows.
Mix this with human hair peroxide (20 volume to 40 volume) into a paste and again leave on overnight. The Crown Royale Whitener works a lot like MOM/peroxide, it works faster but IMHO it is much harsher -- again, CONDITION WELL. Crown Royale's phone # is 1-800-992-5400 and is also available from many vendors at the dog shows.
Human hair bleach
There are any number of brands of this. When I started in Maltese a number of years ago my mentor told me ONLY to use Wella Wellite (this is the one in the light blue/turquoise package). Many of the human hair bleaches are very harsh and they all work, but care needs to be used in selecting the bleach to use. A gel based bleach such as Wellite is much gentler than some of the other beaches available. Other products that many have used with success is Quick Blue and Redken. Like Wellite they are very gentle products.
I've tried others but always go back to Wellite. When you bleach it is important to use a product such as DuoLube, a sterile mineral oil ointment, in the dogs eyes for protection. You can buy this at most pharmacy/drug stores.
NOTE: Please use caution if you are going to try bleaching -- this is a last resort and one I rarely use. If you are not familiar with this procedure please ask another breeder who is for advice or help. Or drop me an email (bobbie@bhejei.com) and I'll give you some more information.
There are any number of brands of this. When I started in Maltese a number of years ago my mentor told me ONLY to use Wella Wellite (this is the one in the light blue/turquoise package). Many of the human hair bleaches are very harsh and they all work, but care needs to be used in selecting the bleach to use. A gel based bleach such as Wellite is much gentler than some of the other beaches available. Other products that many have used with success is Quick Blue and Redken. Like Wellite they are very gentle products.
I've tried others but always go back to Wellite. When you bleach it is important to use a product such as DuoLube, a sterile mineral oil ointment, in the dogs eyes for protection. You can buy this at most pharmacy/drug stores.
NOTE: Please use caution if you are going to try bleaching -- this is a last resort and one I rarely use. If you are not familiar with this procedure please ask another breeder who is for advice or help. Or drop me an email (bobbie@bhejei.com) and I'll give you some more information.
#1 All Systems Whitening Gel
This is a gel product that contains a mild bleaching agent. It is applied to the facial hair and left to dry. It takes several applications to work, but will also gently help lift some color from the hair. Please see Dog Shopping page for vendors of #1 All Systems products.
When I use a bleaching product one of the things I ALWAYS do is follow up with JOICO Phine (this is a human hair product). This is a chelating conditioner that will help remove all traces of the bleach product. It is most important to get all traces of the beach from the hair. I you do not and then dry with moderate heat the bleach can "frizzle" the hair causing irreversible damage.
The bottom line of removing tearstain color is CONDITION CONDITION CONDITION. I also use 40 volume peroxide most of the time. My personal hairdresser told me that if your going to bleach 20 volume is just as bad for your hair as 40 volume -- the color comes up faster with 40 volume. The DAMAGE you do to the hair -- and yes bleaching can do damage -- is the same with 20 volume as 40 volume. It depends on how long bleach is on the hair (time) as to the amount of damage and it is shorter with 40 volume -- hence less damage. Cream peroxide and gel peroxide are less harsh than the liquid variety.
And finally, don't be impatient. If you have a face that is badly stained it may take several attempts to bring the color back up to white. Do it several days apart and in between CONDITION CONDITION CONDITION
This is a gel product that contains a mild bleaching agent. It is applied to the facial hair and left to dry. It takes several applications to work, but will also gently help lift some color from the hair. Please see Dog Shopping page for vendors of #1 All Systems products.
When I use a bleaching product one of the things I ALWAYS do is follow up with JOICO Phine (this is a human hair product). This is a chelating conditioner that will help remove all traces of the bleach product. It is most important to get all traces of the beach from the hair. I you do not and then dry with moderate heat the bleach can "frizzle" the hair causing irreversible damage.
The bottom line of removing tearstain color is CONDITION CONDITION CONDITION. I also use 40 volume peroxide most of the time. My personal hairdresser told me that if your going to bleach 20 volume is just as bad for your hair as 40 volume -- the color comes up faster with 40 volume. The DAMAGE you do to the hair -- and yes bleaching can do damage -- is the same with 20 volume as 40 volume. It depends on how long bleach is on the hair (time) as to the amount of damage and it is shorter with 40 volume -- hence less damage. Cream peroxide and gel peroxide are less harsh than the liquid variety.
And finally, don't be impatient. If you have a face that is badly stained it may take several attempts to bring the color back up to white. Do it several days apart and in between CONDITION CONDITION CONDITION
Leisure Trims
While everyone will probably agree that the elegant Maltese in long flowing coat is a sight to behold it is probably more work to keep up than many people wish to do. The solution is a
short trim know as a "puppy cut", "cocker clip", "Poodle clip", or "Schnauzer cut" to different people. Whatever you wish to call it, it gives a Maltese freedom to play and be mischievous without the worry of coat care problems. Short trims also cut down on grooming and bathing time. Many of the show exhibitors put their Maltese in these clips when the Maltese has retired from their active show career.
The first time an owner puts their Maltese in this clip they may want to enlist the services of a professional groomer. However, it is also easy to do at home. In addition to the basic grooming supplies discussed earlier in this chapter you will also need a good set of clippers. The directions that follow are for the Oster A5 clipper, a #10 blade and a #4 or #5 blade. Oster clippers can be purchased from many of the catalog pet suppliers and many pet stores. There are other comparable brands of clippers.
short trim know as a "puppy cut", "cocker clip", "Poodle clip", or "Schnauzer cut" to different people. Whatever you wish to call it, it gives a Maltese freedom to play and be mischievous without the worry of coat care problems. Short trims also cut down on grooming and bathing time. Many of the show exhibitors put their Maltese in these clips when the Maltese has retired from their active show career.The first time an owner puts their Maltese in this clip they may want to enlist the services of a professional groomer. However, it is also easy to do at home. In addition to the basic grooming supplies discussed earlier in this chapter you will also need a good set of clippers. The directions that follow are for the Oster A5 clipper, a #10 blade and a #4 or #5 blade. Oster clippers can be purchased from many of the catalog pet suppliers and many pet stores. There are other comparable brands of clippers.
Leisure Cut Procedure
First groom your Maltese with a brush, slicker and comb until all the mats have been removed from the coat.
Using the Oster clipper with the #4 or #5 blade clip the hair of the body in a downward motion for a smooth finish. Clip all the body from the neck to the tail including the lower chest. Do not clip the legs, tail or head. An alternative is the leave the hair on the sides and the lower chest a little longer.
Next you should work on the head and face. Using the Oster clipper with the #10 blade clip the hair on the sides of the face going from the front to the back. Clip the area under the ears short also. Leave the ears long. For the mustache and beard use your scissors and trim the area from the corner of the mouth forward into a circle. The hair above the eyes and the skull should be trimmed to about 1 -2 inches in length kind of like a little cap. Hold the hair up to cut this in a nice circle and then let fall.
When you have finished clipping the body you can use your scissors to trim the legs to blend into the body, leaving the hair longer toward the feet, but shorter at the top. Round off the feet to give a nice finished look. Do not forget the trim the hair around th
e pads and clip the toenails.
As you work on the face you may use your scissors to be creative until you get the look you desire. When you are doing your first clip you may wish to initially leave the hair a little longer until you achieve the look you desire.
Once you have complete the clipping and scissoring you should bath and blow-dry your Maltese. You may find you have missed a few straggly hairs so touch them up with your scissors.
Once in this clip your Maltese will need to only be clipped or touched up every several months.
First groom your Maltese with a brush, slicker and comb until all the mats have been removed from the coat.
Using the Oster clipper with the #4 or #5 blade clip the hair of the body in a downward motion for a smooth finish. Clip all the body from the neck to the tail including the lower chest. Do not clip the legs, tail or head. An alternative is the leave the hair on the sides and the lower chest a little longer.Next you should work on the head and face. Using the Oster clipper with the #10 blade clip the hair on the sides of the face going from the front to the back. Clip the area under the ears short also. Leave the ears long. For the mustache and beard use your scissors and trim the area from the corner of the mouth forward into a circle. The hair above the eyes and the skull should be trimmed to about 1 -2 inches in length kind of like a little cap. Hold the hair up to cut this in a nice circle and then let fall.
When you have finished clipping the body you can use your scissors to trim the legs to blend into the body, leaving the hair longer toward the feet, but shorter at the top. Round off the feet to give a nice finished look. Do not forget the trim the hair around th
e pads and clip the toenails.As you work on the face you may use your scissors to be creative until you get the look you desire. When you are doing your first clip you may wish to initially leave the hair a little longer until you achieve the look you desire.
Once you have complete the clipping and scissoring you should bath and blow-dry your Maltese. You may find you have missed a few straggly hairs so touch them up with your scissors.
Once in this clip your Maltese will need to only be clipped or touched up every several months.
Basic Maltese Grooming
Training To Be Groomed
Train your Maltese/puppy to lay on his back and/or side and being groomed when he is young. The best time to train is when he is tired and willing to lie quietly or rest. Even though a young Maltese puppy does not require a lot of grooming, you need to train him when he is young, before his coat starts getting mats and tangles so he will accept the grooming that will become a necessary part of his life. If he gets used to it at an early age, he will be more cooperative during grooming sessions, and you will both.
Train your Maltese/puppy to lay on his back and/or side and being groomed when he is young. The best time to train is when he is tired and willing to lie quietly or rest. Even though a young Maltese puppy does not require a lot of grooming, you need to train him when he is young, before his coat starts getting mats and tangles so he will accept the grooming that will become a necessary part of his life. If he gets used to it at an early age, he will be more cooperative during grooming sessions, and you will both.
Grooming Supplies
Do not under estimate the importance of using good supplies and equipment. Most of the products I'm going to discuss usually cannot be bought at the mall-type pet stores.
Do not under estimate the importance of using good supplies and equipment. Most of the products I'm going to discuss usually cannot be bought at the mall-type pet stores.
Grooming Supplies you will need include:Pin brush : There are two types of pin brushes I like -- the best sources of these are Traleigh, # 1 All Systems and Vellus; all three have good deep pins to penetrate a Maltese coat.
Combs : small & large greyhound, rat-tailI use several types of combs; most basic is a Belgium greyhound comb. Avoid the cheap ones and use the good steel ones -- they glide through the hair much better and break less coat. I use both a large and a small one of these as well as having a rattail parting comb from the beauty supply.
slicker brush#1 All Systems makes the best slicker brushes I have found. I really like the small one and am particularly fond a triangle shaped one with a pointed nose for getting those difficult places like the underarms.
scissorsA pair of 6 inch straight edge scissors made for dogs or human hair cutting is a good basic scissor; you could supplement this with a smaller curved blade pair and a longer blade pair
Nail clippers : There are several varieties of nail clippers but I prefer the guillotine type.
rubber bandsThe rubber bands I use are the small orthodontic types for holding the hair out of the face of the Maltese.
grooming/conditioning spraya spray bottle can be purchased many different places; place a small amount of conditioner and dilute with water to mist in the coat
slicker brush#1 All Systems makes the best slicker brushes I have found. I really like the small one and am particularly fond a triangle shaped one with a pointed nose for getting those difficult places like the underarms.
scissorsA pair of 6 inch straight edge scissors made for dogs or human hair cutting is a good basic scissor; you could supplement this with a smaller curved blade pair and a longer blade pair
Nail clippers : There are several varieties of nail clippers but I prefer the guillotine type.
rubber bandsThe rubber bands I use are the small orthodontic types for holding the hair out of the face of the Maltese.
grooming/conditioning spraya spray bottle can be purchased many different places; place a small amount of conditioner and dilute with water to mist in the coat
Brushing Techniques
Brushing your dog is the single most important thing that you can do to keep the coat looking nice and mat free. You must brush at least every other day if you have your dog in full coat. When brushing continually mist the hair with a conditioner spray (for exa
mple, the conditioner used as a rinse after bathing). A tiny bit of coat oil may be added to the conditioner. The conditioning mist helps avoid breaking the coat.
It is important to brush the entire coat and not just the top portions. Start with a pin brush and work your way though the coat. Use the parting comb to separate the hair. Start at the underside and work up to the rest of the coat. How you brush is as important as if you brush. A common problem many people have trying to grow a long coat is "flipping the wrists". The grooming stroke should be a long stroke through the hair finished off with the wrist flat. When one finishes the stroke by flipping up the wrist microscopic pieces of hair can break off the ends of the coat. Over time this repeated practice can cause a coat not to grow long.
Brushing your dog is the single most important thing that you can do to keep the coat looking nice and mat free. You must brush at least every other day if you have your dog in full coat. When brushing continually mist the hair with a conditioner spray (for exa
mple, the conditioner used as a rinse after bathing). A tiny bit of coat oil may be added to the conditioner. The conditioning mist helps avoid breaking the coat.It is important to brush the entire coat and not just the top portions. Start with a pin brush and work your way though the coat. Use the parting comb to separate the hair. Start at the underside and work up to the rest of the coat. How you brush is as important as if you brush. A common problem many people have trying to grow a long coat is "flipping the wrists". The grooming stroke should be a long stroke through the hair finished off with the wrist flat. When one finishes the stroke by flipping up the wrist microscopic pieces of hair can break off the ends of the coat. Over time this repeated practice can cause a coat not to grow long.
Removing Mats
If you find a mat, gently separate it with your fingertips. Brushing through it will result in hair loss. To remove a mat, spray it lightly to lubricate the hair. If the mat you are removing is large and packed solid, you may have to spray it with detangler or, better yet, a coat conditioning oil until it is saturated. You and your Maltese will both need a lot of patience. Pull the mat apart as much as possible with your fingers; then use the end tooth of the comb to loosen the individual hairs. Work on the mat from whichever side allows you the best access. Do not cut the mat out unless you want a big hole in your dog's coat and only cut through the mat as a last resort, if it is so solidly packed that you have no other choice. NOTE: If you decide to cut a mat be very careful -- it is possible that a mat could be very tight to the skin and you could cut the skin as well as the mat.
To loosen the mat, you may have to use more oil or detangler as you progress, and you may have to allow it to soak for a while before it does its job. Alternate between separating the mat with your fingers and separating it with the end tooth of your comb. Never try to pull the entire mat out at once with the comb or brush. It hurts and your Maltese will let you know he does not appreciate what you are doing to him.
The coat should be free of all mats before you bathe your Maltese; water only serves to set mats in tighter.
If you find a mat, gently separate it with your fingertips. Brushing through it will result in hair loss. To remove a mat, spray it lightly to lubricate the hair. If the mat you are removing is large and packed solid, you may have to spray it with detangler or, better yet, a coat conditioning oil until it is saturated. You and your Maltese will both need a lot of patience. Pull the mat apart as much as possible with your fingers; then use the end tooth of the comb to loosen the individual hairs. Work on the mat from whichever side allows you the best access. Do not cut the mat out unless you want a big hole in your dog's coat and only cut through the mat as a last resort, if it is so solidly packed that you have no other choice. NOTE: If you decide to cut a mat be very careful -- it is possible that a mat could be very tight to the skin and you could cut the skin as well as the mat.
To loosen the mat, you may have to use more oil or detangler as you progress, and you may have to allow it to soak for a while before it does its job. Alternate between separating the mat with your fingers and separating it with the end tooth of your comb. Never try to pull the entire mat out at once with the comb or brush. It hurts and your Maltese will let you know he does not appreciate what you are doing to him.
The coat should be free of all mats before you bathe your Maltese; water only serves to set mats in tighter.
Bathing
The frequency that you need to bathe your dog will depend upon whether you are showing your dog or its a pet, your dogs coat type (some are more prone to matting if they are not bathed weekly) and the environment in which the dog lives (obviously a dog who goes outside more will need to be
bathed more). A good bathing schedule for a Maltese would be to bathe every 7 to 10 days. Follow the shampoo with a conditioner. Care should be used during the shampoo process. Excessive rubbing can cause breakage and matting. The best results will be achieved by pouring the shampoo and conditioner over the coat and gently cleansing.
Have everything necessary towels, shampoo, conditioner etc. ready before you put your Maltese in the tub. Clean your dog's ears if necessary and place a small ball of cotton in the ears to soak up any water accidentally entering the ear canal (a common cause of infection). Place a rubber mat or towel on the bottom of the sink or bathtub. A hand-held rubber spray attached to your faucet can make things much easier.
Make sure your Maltese is completely wet to the skin before applying shampoo. Apply dabs of shampoo to the back, each leg and under the tail of your dog. Work up a good lather down to the skin, proceeding from back to front. Take special care to clean the anal area and paw pads. Rinse the coat thoroughly and shampoo again. Rinse again. Wash your dog's face with a washcloth. Take great care to avoid the getting shampoo in the eyes. Tip the head up to rinse. RINSE every part of the body until all traces of soap are gone and the water runs perfectly clear.
At this point, you may add a conditioner. Allow it to stay in the coat for the time recommended by the manufacturer and then rinse from the coat. When the bath is finished, squeeze all the excess water from the ears, legs, and tail before removing the dog from the tub. When towel drying your Maltese, squeeze or blot the coat with the towel to remove as much moisture as possible. Do not rub the coat with the towel as this can cause tangling and mats.
Which Shampoos To Use
Choice of shampoos and conditioners is very important in grooming a Maltese. The pH of normal canine skin has a reported range from about 7.0 to 7.4. The neutral point on the pH scale is 7.0, therefore canine skin should be considered mildly alkaline. Human skin, by contrast, has a pH of approximately 5.5. Using human products which are acidic will sooner or later cause damage to you Maltese coat. There are a number of good canine products on the market. Select a shampoo that will cleanse well. Whitening shampoos may help brighten the coat of a Maltese, but long term use of these products may cause dryness of the hair and result in coat breakage. Follow the shampoo with a good cream rinse or conditioner.
I suppose I'm like others and try every new product that comes on the market. If you do also buy a small bottle until you know if you like it. Some of my favorite products are from these manufacturers: Coat Handler, Crown Royale, Dursteed, Fantastic, Pet Silk, Vellus and #1 All Systems. All have both shampoos and conditioners. I find that each dog has a unique coat and what works well on one sometimes will not do so well on another. From time to time I change products on a dog. I avoid the whitening type of shampoos and conditioners as I feel these dry out the coat.
I use few human products on my dogs as most of them are pH balanced for human hair. One of the human products I use is a clarifying shampoo called Quantum. Grooming products have a tendency to build up on the hair shaft and every 4 to 6 baths I clarify the hair. Vellus also makes an excellent clarifier. The other human products I use are JOICO's Moisturizer and Sun Glitz Repair and Shine.
The frequency that you need to bathe your dog will depend upon whether you are showing your dog or its a pet, your dogs coat type (some are more prone to matting if they are not bathed weekly) and the environment in which the dog lives (obviously a dog who goes outside more will need to be
bathed more). A good bathing schedule for a Maltese would be to bathe every 7 to 10 days. Follow the shampoo with a conditioner. Care should be used during the shampoo process. Excessive rubbing can cause breakage and matting. The best results will be achieved by pouring the shampoo and conditioner over the coat and gently cleansing.Have everything necessary towels, shampoo, conditioner etc. ready before you put your Maltese in the tub. Clean your dog's ears if necessary and place a small ball of cotton in the ears to soak up any water accidentally entering the ear canal (a common cause of infection). Place a rubber mat or towel on the bottom of the sink or bathtub. A hand-held rubber spray attached to your faucet can make things much easier.
Make sure your Maltese is completely wet to the skin before applying shampoo. Apply dabs of shampoo to the back, each leg and under the tail of your dog. Work up a good lather down to the skin, proceeding from back to front. Take special care to clean the anal area and paw pads. Rinse the coat thoroughly and shampoo again. Rinse again. Wash your dog's face with a washcloth. Take great care to avoid the getting shampoo in the eyes. Tip the head up to rinse. RINSE every part of the body until all traces of soap are gone and the water runs perfectly clear.
At this point, you may add a conditioner. Allow it to stay in the coat for the time recommended by the manufacturer and then rinse from the coat. When the bath is finished, squeeze all the excess water from the ears, legs, and tail before removing the dog from the tub. When towel drying your Maltese, squeeze or blot the coat with the towel to remove as much moisture as possible. Do not rub the coat with the towel as this can cause tangling and mats.
Which Shampoos To Use
Choice of shampoos and conditioners is very important in grooming a Maltese. The pH of normal canine skin has a reported range from about 7.0 to 7.4. The neutral point on the pH scale is 7.0, therefore canine skin should be considered mildly alkaline. Human skin, by contrast, has a pH of approximately 5.5. Using human products which are acidic will sooner or later cause damage to you Maltese coat. There are a number of good canine products on the market. Select a shampoo that will cleanse well. Whitening shampoos may help brighten the coat of a Maltese, but long term use of these products may cause dryness of the hair and result in coat breakage. Follow the shampoo with a good cream rinse or conditioner.
I suppose I'm like others and try every new product that comes on the market. If you do also buy a small bottle until you know if you like it. Some of my favorite products are from these manufacturers: Coat Handler, Crown Royale, Dursteed, Fantastic, Pet Silk, Vellus and #1 All Systems. All have both shampoos and conditioners. I find that each dog has a unique coat and what works well on one sometimes will not do so well on another. From time to time I change products on a dog. I avoid the whitening type of shampoos and conditioners as I feel these dry out the coat.
I use few human products on my dogs as most of them are pH balanced for human hair. One of the human products I use is a clarifying shampoo called Quantum. Grooming products have a tendency to build up on the hair shaft and every 4 to 6 baths I clarify the hair. Vellus also makes an excellent clarifier. The other human products I use are JOICO's Moisturizer and Sun Glitz Repair and Shine.
Blow Drying
Following the bath a Maltese should be blow dry. An inexpensive stand dryer that works well for many people is one called the Ducky (you can purchase this dryer from many of the Dog Mailorder Catalogs). This dryer will sit on a table or counter and allow the use of one hand to brush the Maltese hair and the other hand to keep your Maltese out of danger. Use only the medium heat setting of your dryer. Using high heat can cause the coat the break more readily. As you direct the heat from the dryer of the coat use a long firm grooming stroke. Continue with one section until it feels dry to the touch and then move on to another. Many times the feet and leg furnishings can be dried easier using a slicker brush. The face furnishings should be dried last using a small metallic comb.
Following the bath a Maltese should be blow dry. An inexpensive stand dryer that works well for many people is one called the Ducky (you can purchase this dryer from many of the Dog Mailorder Catalogs). This dryer will sit on a table or counter and allow the use of one hand to brush the Maltese hair and the other hand to keep your Maltese out of danger. Use only the medium heat setting of your dryer. Using high heat can cause the coat the break more readily. As you direct the heat from the dryer of the coat use a long firm grooming stroke. Continue with one section until it feels dry to the touch and then move on to another. Many times the feet and leg furnishings can be dried easier using a slicker brush. The face furnishings should be dried last using a small metallic comb.
Feet
The hair between the pads of the Maltese foot grows quite long and quite fast. If ignored, it tends to mat. Left alone, the mats increase in size and can spread the pads further apart.
Keeping the pads neatly trimmed is an easy task. With the dog on his side or back, hold a leg steady at an angle that is easy for you to work with. The hand that holds the leg will have to do double duty because you'll need to spread the pads slightly apart so you can trim down between them. Some groomers use a clipper (such as a mustache trimmer) for this task, others a small scissors.
Shaggy feet make even the most neatly groomed Maltese look "unfinished." The unkempt appearance of those feet can be improved simply by trimming and rounding the coat around the feet. Push the hair up and away from the foot itself and hold it there. Brush or comb a layer of hair over the foot and trim it all the way around fairly close to the foot. Then brush a second layer over the foot, this time trimming it so it is slightly longer than the first layer. Depending on how heavily coated your dog's foot is, repeat this until the foot has a neat, rounded appearance. Do all four feet in the same way.
The hair between the pads of the Maltese foot grows quite long and quite fast. If ignored, it tends to mat. Left alone, the mats increase in size and can spread the pads further apart.
Keeping the pads neatly trimmed is an easy task. With the dog on his side or back, hold a leg steady at an angle that is easy for you to work with. The hand that holds the leg will have to do double duty because you'll need to spread the pads slightly apart so you can trim down between them. Some groomers use a clipper (such as a mustache trimmer) for this task, others a small scissors.
Shaggy feet make even the most neatly groomed Maltese look "unfinished." The unkempt appearance of those feet can be improved simply by trimming and rounding the coat around the feet. Push the hair up and away from the foot itself and hold it there. Brush or comb a layer of hair over the foot and trim it all the way around fairly close to the foot. Then brush a second layer over the foot, this time trimming it so it is slightly longer than the first layer. Depending on how heavily coated your dog's foot is, repeat this until the foot has a neat, rounded appearance. Do all four feet in the same way.
Nails
It is of paramount importance to clip the nails every week - just after a bath is the best time when the nails are soft. Purchase dog nail clippers at a pet supply store. Kinds available include "guillotine" style and scissors style. The guillotine style has replaceable blades and the scissors have a notch cut in the blade to fit the nail. Never use human clippers, which can split and injure the nails. Dogs have thick nails, so be sure your clippers have sharp blades. Have a QuikStop, flour or cornstarch on hand in case you accidentally nick a quick.
Clip your Maltese nails under good lighting. Most Maltese nails are white or light colored, and the darker center of the quick is unmistakable. However, some Maltese have dark nails and the quick is not visible. In this case, clip only the ends of the nails. You may have to cut them more frequently to achieve a proper length. Cut at a perpendicular (90 degrees) angle to the nail. Remember to also clip the nail of the dewclaws. After you clip them, filing the nails with a human or dog nail file helps to smooth the sharp edges.
It is of paramount importance to clip the nails every week - just after a bath is the best time when the nails are soft. Purchase dog nail clippers at a pet supply store. Kinds available include "guillotine" style and scissors style. The guillotine style has replaceable blades and the scissors have a notch cut in the blade to fit the nail. Never use human clippers, which can split and injure the nails. Dogs have thick nails, so be sure your clippers have sharp blades. Have a QuikStop, flour or cornstarch on hand in case you accidentally nick a quick.
Clip your Maltese nails under good lighting. Most Maltese nails are white or light colored, and the darker center of the quick is unmistakable. However, some Maltese have dark nails and the quick is not visible. In this case, clip only the ends of the nails. You may have to cut them more frequently to achieve a proper length. Cut at a perpendicular (90 degrees) angle to the nail. Remember to also clip the nail of the dewclaws. After you clip them, filing the nails with a human or dog nail file helps to smooth the sharp edges.
Teeth
Dogs should have their teeth brushed each day. This is especially important for older dogs, which are more likely to have plaque buildup. Be sure to use toothpaste made for dogs. Human toothpaste may contain ingredients that can upset a dog's stomach.
If your Maltese struggles, try wrapping it in a large towel to gently restrain it. Follow-up the brushing with praise and play, so that your Maltese associates the experience with something positive. If your dog simply refuses to have his teeth brushed, there are cleansing gels on the market containing zinc ascorbate which can be effective in controlling plaque and tartar when used daily. The gel can be sprayed or rubbed inside the dog's mouth.
Dogs should have their teeth brushed each day. This is especially important for older dogs, which are more likely to have plaque buildup. Be sure to use toothpaste made for dogs. Human toothpaste may contain ingredients that can upset a dog's stomach.
If your Maltese struggles, try wrapping it in a large towel to gently restrain it. Follow-up the brushing with praise and play, so that your Maltese associates the experience with something positive. If your dog simply refuses to have his teeth brushed, there are cleansing gels on the market containing zinc ascorbate which can be effective in controlling plaque and tartar when used daily. The gel can be sprayed or rubbed inside the dog's mouth.
Ears
Apply ear powder to the inside of each ear, making certain the hair is thoroughly covered, especially at the base. Wait a few minutes to allow the powder to dry the hair. It is surprising how much easier the hair is to pluck once the powder has dried and how much less your Maltese will mind the plucking if the powder is used.
Pluck only a few hairs at a time, since this is less irritating for the dog. You can use your fingers to pull out the majority of the hair; however, if you prefer, you may also use a tweezers or hemostat.
Apply ear powder to the inside of each ear, making certain the hair is thoroughly covered, especially at the base. Wait a few minutes to allow the powder to dry the hair. It is surprising how much easier the hair is to pluck once the powder has dried and how much less your Maltese will mind the plucking if the powder is used.
Pluck only a few hairs at a time, since this is less irritating for the dog. You can use your fingers to pull out the majority of the hair; however, if you prefer, you may also use a tweezers or hemostat.
Parting 
Stack your Maltese on a table and stand directly behind him. (Make sure the dog is standing straight so his spine is straight.) Using the end tooth of a metal comb or a knitting needle and beginning at the base of the tail, run the tooth of the comb straight up the spine, allowing the coat to fall to either side.
Stack your Maltese on a table and stand directly behind him. (Make sure the dog is standing straight so his spine is straight.) Using the end tooth of a metal comb or a knitting needle and beginning at the base of the tail, run the tooth of the comb straight up the spine, allowing the coat to fall to either side.
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